When I first started painting furniture, the thing that confused me the most was when to use a topcoat or sealer and which one to use.
I very quickly learned that not all sealers are created equal. Some work on stained furniture but cause paint to yellow. Some leave a milky film when applied over dark paint colors. Some need to be reapplied regularly. And some work like a dream.
Since then, I’ve painted dozens of pieces of furniture and I’ve learned a ton about how to protect painted furniture so it continues to look beautiful for years to come.
And I’ve learned that the topcoat or sealer you choose to use on your painted furniture can affect the final outcome as much as your choice of paint, if not more.
I’ve shared tons of painted furniture makeovers here over the years as well as a step-by-step guide to painting furniture that walks you through all of the decisions related to painting your specific piece of furniture. And I figured it is definitely time to share all I’ve learned about choosing the perfect sealer to finish off your painted furniture.
In this post, I am answering the questions I am asked most frequently about sealing painted furniture and also sharing reviews of the most popular sealers available to make it easier to choose the perfect sealer for your next project.
This post contains affiliate links which means if you make a purchase after clicking a link I will earn a small commission but it won’t cost you a penny more. Click here to see my full disclosure policy.
What does a sealer even do?
A sealer, which may also be called a topcoat, simply protects your beautiful paint finish from stains, scratches, chips, and scuffs.
Topcoats dry to a much harder finish than most paints and therefore are much harder to damage. Sealers also help protect your painted furniture from water and create a surface that can be easily cleaned without damaging the paint underneath.
When I first started painting furniture, I didn’t really understand why you would need to put sealer over the paint. I had painted walls plenty of time and they certainly didn’t need any sealer afterwards.
Of course, painting furniture and painting walls is very different. Drywall is extremely porous and absorbs paint easily; if you scratch your walls with a fingernail, you aren’t likely to be able to scratch the paint off because it adheres so firmly.
Painting furniture is an entirely different matter. Paint doesn’t permeate the hard woods furniture is made of as easily. It also doesn’t bond as firmly to the old finishes we are typically trying to paint over. Which means painted furniture is often vulnerable to being easily scratched and chipped.
On top of that some paints stain and scuff very easily and can be difficult to clean. Sealing your painted furniture protects it from all of these potential issues.
When do you need to seal painted furniture?
It can be confusing knowing when you have to seal painted furniture and when you do not. There are a few basic rules to keep in mind.
Chalk Paint – Any time you paint furniture with chalk paint, you need to protect the finish with a sealer or topcoat. Every single time.
Latex Paint – Most times you paint furniture with latex paint, you need to protect the finish with a sealer or topcoat. If you are painting a piece of furniture that will not be heavily used, you may be able to skip the sealer. If you do, be sure to be extra gentle with your furniture for the first month of use. Even though the paint may feel dry to the touch, it can take up to 30 days for it to fully harden.
High Traffic Surfaces – There are some other paints that do not require a sealer including General Finishes Milk Paint and Fusion Mineral Paint. These paints have some self-sealing properties and do not require a topcoat, but I have learned the hard way that even these paints can become worn and scratched when used on high traffic surfaces like tabletops, shelves, and kitchen cabinets. In those cases, using a topcoat will help ensure your paint job lasts longer.
How to seal painted furniture
There are several different ways you can apply furniture sealer: with a paint sprayer, with a paintbrush, with a wax brush, with a rag, or with an applicator sponge. The specific method you use will depend on which sealer you are using.
Be sure to carefully read the instructions on your specific sealer for recommended application methods. Also, pay close attention to the temperature recommendations on your sealer; working in conditions that are too cool or too warm can make it impossible to get an even finish.
Before applying your sealer, make sure to stir it thoroughly; do not shake topcoats to mix them as this can cause air bubbles to form,
In general, you want to apply furniture sealer using multiple thin, even coats. At least two thin coats of sealer is recommended but I usually apply 3-4 coats of sealer on high-traffic pieces.
If you are using a brush to apply furniture sealer, brush it on in long, even strokes. Try to work from one side of your piece to the other so that as you are overlapping your brushstrokes and your paintbrush never touches areas that have already begun to dry. Also, resist the urge to touch up your finish before it has completely dried.
A paint sprayer is a great way to get a flawless finish on your painted furniture, but I have also had great luck getting a very smooth finish using this $3 applicator sponge.
(This is the paint sprayer I use; it’s easy to use and doesn’t require an air compressor.)
Which furniture sealers are the best?
There are a lot of furniture sealers out there these days. Each new line of furniture paint that debuts also has its own sealer or topcoat.
I certainly have not tried every topcoat from every paint line, but I have tried the most widely available sealers as well as those that have the strongest reputation.
Each sealer has strengths and weaknesses and I have tried to be as objective as possible in my assessment of them.
Minwax Polycrylic
Price: $13-$20 per quart
Availability: Available on Amazon or at your local home improvement store.
Formula: Water-based, non-yellowing
Finishes: Comes in Matte, Satin, Semi-Gloss, and Gloss finishes. This polycrylic comes in a spray version as well as a brush-on version.
Application: Can be applied with a brush or sprayed. This sealer is not always the easiest to work with. When applied with a brush, it is more difficult to avoid brushstrokes and get a nice smooth finish. I have also found that it tends to leave a milky white finish over dark paint colors and can appear yellow if applied too thickly over white paint. But if you use a quality paintbrush and apply thin, even coats, it can work well.
Verdict: In my opinion this sealer isn’t nearly as easy to work with as the General Finishes sealers. However, it is cheaper and can easily be found at your local home improvement store so it wins as far as convenience. And though it can be more difficult to work with, it does give a very durable finish.
Pieces I have used this sealer on:
Minwax Polyurethane
Price: $10-$20 per quart
Availability: Available on Amazon or at your local home improvement store.
Formula: Oil-based.
Finishes: Comes in Satin, Semi-Gloss, and Gloss finishes. This polyurethane comes in a spray version as well though I have never tried it.
Application: Can be applied with a brush, a foam brush, or wiped on with a rag. Polyurethane is generally easy to apply but it isn’t quite as forgiving as General Finishes High Performance Top Coat. If conditions aren’t completely optimal, you may be left with a streaky or bubbly finish.
Verdict: I often use Minwax polyurethane to seal stained wood furniture because it is inexpensive and is conveniently available locally. It is not a good topcoat for painted furniture because it yellows and will affect the appearance of the paint color.
Pieces I have used this sealer on:
Furniture Wax
Price: $8-$25 per pint (Note, this is the price per pint, while the other sealers have the price per quart listed. Even thought the quantity is different, the square footage covered by this amount of wax is comparable to the coverage from a quart of liquid sealer so this is a fair price comparison.)
Availability: There are many different brands of furniture wax. Personally I have tried Annie Sloan wax, Johnson paste wax, and Americana Decor Creme Wax. Some are definitely better than others, but I am listing them all together here because they all work essentially the same way. Many waxes are available on Amazon and Etsy, but Annie Sloan wax is only available from Annie Sloan Chalk Paint retailers.
Formula: Typically available in clear, white, or dark wax colors. Dark wax is a wonderful way to add a bit of antiquing to the details of a piece.
Finishes: Most wax dries to a more matte finish and can be buffed until the desired sheen is reached.
Application: Wax can be applied with a rag or a wax brush and then buffed with a clean cloth.
Verdict: I personally find it difficult to apply wax well. It is very easy to apply way too much wax and a bit of a pain to remove the excess. Wax is also generally not as water-resistant or as tough as other sealers. It needs to be reapplied regularly in order to continue to effectively protect the paint underneath. I know that some furniture painters love wax, but I am not a fan. It is more difficult to apply than other sealers, yet it isn’t as long-lasting and durable. Of the furniture waxes I have used, Annie Sloan was by far my favorite.
Pieces I have used this sealer on:
General Finishes Flat out Flat
Price: $25-$30 per quart (You may notice a pint costs nearly as much as a quart in many stores. It is definitely worth going for the quart.)
Availability: Available on Amazon or look for a local store here.
Formula: Water-based, non-yellowing
Finishes: This is a completely matte finish which is ideal for pieces that you want to have a more vintage, aged look. Flat out flat is advertised as a more durable alternative to furniture wax.
Application: Goes on easily with a smooth paintbrush, a foam brush or sprayed with a paint sprayer.
Verdict: This is my favorite sealer for distressed furniture or any furniture you want to have a vintage feel. This is also my favorite sealer to use over chalk paint for a completely matte finish. It is extremely easy to apply and gives a beautiful flat finish that protects well.
Pieces I have used this sealer on:
- The painted frame on my Reupholstered Vintage Sofa
- Chippy Farmhouse Blue Dresser
- DIY Apothecary Cabinet
General Finishes High Performance Top Coat
Price: $25-$30 per quart (Again, buying a quart is much more cost effective than buying a pint.)
Availability: Available on Amazon or look for a local store here.
Formula: Water-based, non-yellowing
Finishes: Comes in Flat, Satin, Semi-Gloss, and Gloss (It’s important to know that the matte finish is not truly flat and still has a slight sheen.)
Application: Goes on easily with a smooth paintbrush, a foam brush or sprayed with a paint sprayer. Can also be used over stained wood or other oil-based products. Just make sure the stain is completely dried first – you need to wait at least 24 hours.
Verdict: This is my number one pick for a great all-around sealer. It is easy to apply, holds up well, and works well over all kinds of paint and stain. I have never had a problem when using this sealer.
Pieces I have used this sealer on:
- Neutral dresser
- Black kitchen chairs (painted with paint sprayer)
- Gray and White Ombre Dresser
- Color-dipped IKEA stepstool
Dixie Belle Gator Hide
Price: $25-$32 per quart
Availability: Available on Amazon and Etsy or look for a local retailer here.
Formula: Water-based, non-yellowing
Finish: Gator Hide has a very low sheen, close to a matte finish.
Application: Can be applied with a brush but you will get the smoothest finish using Dixie Belle’s popular blue sponge applicator. Gator Hide is formulated to provide a very durable finish for tabletops, counters, outdoor furniture, and other pieces that get a lot of wear and tear.
Verdict: I haven’t personally had a chance to try Gator Hide yet, but I had to include it because it comes so highly recommended by other bloggers and furniture painters. If you have used it, I would love to know what you think.
Those are my picks for the best and worst furniture sealers. What would you add to the list? Do you have a favorite that I need to add to my list of products to try?
Here are a few more furniture painting posts I think you’ll find helpful:
Jonnika says
So I reRecently painted an upholstered headboard gray chalk paint and sealed it with clear wax and it now has white spots all over it any idea how to get the white spots removed or do I put more wax on I’m at a loss?
Carrie says
It is possible the white spots are areas where there is too much wax and it needs to be buffed in more. Excess wax can often look white. Good luck!
Glyn Ramage says
I bought a white laminate bathroom vanity i sealed it with Zinders bulls eye 123 then painted it black (3 coats) with Val spar semi gloss cabinet and furniture oil enriched enamel. After reading your very informative article, I feel I should seal with a polyurethane. Can you help?
Carrie says
Your vanity sounds lovely. I haven’t used Valspar’s oil-enriched enamel but I did a little research. I found an article written by a DIYer who also worked at Valspar saying that you don’t need a topcoat for this paint – https://porchdaydreamer.com/valspar-cabinet-furniture-enamel-review/ I know that is just one opinion, but oil paints do dry very hard and since this is an oil-enriched paint, I think there is a good chance you are safe to not use a topcoat.
Jason says
Thank you so much Carrie for your guidance. It was very Helpful! for the 1st time I tried my hand painting an old dresser that was my fathers when he was a kid. This dresser was in bad shape but has a lot of sentimental value so I did not want to just throw it out. My paint job came out great and I wanted to find the best way to finish it so it will last for many years to come. I have purchased the General Finishes High Performance Satin from Amazon using your using your affiliate link.
Carrie says
Thanks, I’m so glad I could help! I love that you are fixing up an old dresser with sentimental value – I hope you love the finished results!
Colleen says
I (oops) used interior chalk paint to paint my exterior tile table. Any ideas what the best way to seal it is to try my best to keep the finish?
Carrie says
Whoops – we all do things like this sometimes! As long as the paint is adhered well to the tile, a good sealer should protect it. If the paint can be easily scratched from the tile, a sealer might not salvage the situation. My favorite sealer for painted outdoor furniture is Rustoleum’s water-based spar urethane. It holds up well outdoors and is water-based so it won’t cause yellowing. Good luck!
Michele Tesdall says
I bought a used vanity. It’s painted white, and the seller says he applied a layer of wax to the top before I picked it up. It will be used by my teenaged daughter as her makeup station, so I would like to apply something more protective to the top of it such as the General Finishes Top Coat you recommend. My question is should I do something to remove the wax first, or apply the Top Coat right over it? I am very inexperienced in this area. Hoping you can help! Thanks!
Carrie says
Great question. You actually can’t apply any liquid topcoats over wax – they won’t adhere at all. You would need to remove the wax first. You can do that using mineral spirits and a clean rag. The best way to tell if the wax is fully removed is simply by touch. Once it feels like it is all gone, wipe the furniture down with a clean rag. Then you can test the topcoat you will be using in a small section to make sure it adheres well. Good luck!
Cindy says
I am refurbishing a 70’s China cabinet. I sanded & was sprayed with behr enamel white. I’m thinking I didn’t do enough sanding because I scratched with my fingernail & took some paint off so what would you recommend to possible seal so this won’t happen again.
Carrie says
I’m sorry you are having trouble with your paint finish! First, keep in mind that it takes up to 30 days for paint to fully cure (harden) so it may just be that your piece needed more time. But if the paint scratches off super easily and it has been more than a week or two, there may be a bigger issue. One reason this can happen is if a piece wasn’t prepped properly. You said you sanded, so this probably isn’t your issue. But if you don’t clean your piece well or if you don’t use primer with a paint that really needs it, the paint won’t adhere well and will scratch easily. If this were the case, you would probably notice paint peeling off and scratching off in multiple areas. If the problem is the piece was dirty or should have been primed, a good sealer probably won’t fix the issue long term. The other reason paint can scratch off is when a sealer is really needed. If there is just one small scratch, a sealer may be just what is needed. I would use General Finishes High Perfomance Top Coat – it’s easy to apply and dries to a very hard finish.
Alyssa says
Hi Carrie, I am considering buying a painted white table to use as a kitchen table. I’m worried about wear and tear from daily use with 2 young kids, so I’m wondering how to protect the top. Do you think using the General Finishes High Performance Top Coat would work on a “factory painted” table? If so, would you lightly sand the table top prior to using the top coat?
Thanks so much!
Carrie says
Good question. If it has a factory finish, it should already have the necessary sealer in place and you shouldn’t need to add more. Of course, that being said, there are always times that a finish doesn’t hold up the way it should. If it starts to seem like the finish isn’t going to last, you could use General Finishes High Performance Top Coat. It can be used over a water-based or oil-based finish as long as it is fully dried which shouldn’t be a problem for your table. If you choose to add sealer, I would lightly sand the top with 3-400 grit sandpaper before adding the finish.
Rebekah says
Hi Carrie, thank you for your post! I have a question I’m hoping you can advise me on. I redid a kitchen table and chairs. The chairs are chalk paint (dark), the legs of the table are chalk paint, but I stained the top of the table bc it is beautiful inlay of lots of different types of wood. But now I need to seal it! I want more of a matte finish. Is there one product I can use to seal everything? Or something different for the stained part and painted parts? And the kitchen table will get a lot of use. Thank you for any help you can provide!!
Carrie says
A lot of times you can actually use the same sealer over oil and water-based products (like chalk paint and stain). In this case, since you used a dark paint, you could use an oil-based polyurethane over both. Since the paint is dark, yellowing shouldn’t be an issue. But my choice would be to use General Finishes High Performance topcoat in flat. It is easier to work with than polyurethane and can be used over oil-based stains as long as you wait a few days for them to fully dry first. Just know that the flat finish does still have a slight sheen to it. General Finishes flat out flat topcoat is more completely matte but not quite as durable.
Faith says
Hi,
I am painting the kitchen cabinets at my new home and they were initially white laminates.
I sanded them and primed them before applying an oil based cabinet and furniture paint. The paint of satin finish and it looks good but since it is for the kitchen, I want to put a layers of sealert. Do you suggest using the general finishes water based topcoat?
I am really confused as this is my first time doing it! Your help will be much appreciated. Thanks!
Carrie says
You might not need a sealer since you used an oil-based paint. In general oil-based paints dry much harder and are more durable than water-based paints. That’s why they used to be the standard for painting doors, trim, and cabinets. If I were you, I would probably hold off on using a sealer unless the cabinets seem prone to scratches. If you do want to use a sealer, I would still use the GF high performance topcoat. It is water-based but can be used over oil products once they are fully dried. (Wait at least a couple of days.) I have used it over oil before with great results.
Jessica says
Hi Carrie,
I want to buy some bedroom furniture that is solid wood and is painted with what seems to be like a white chalk paint. I would like to know of a good sealer I can put on it so the white doesn’t get marked and dirty looking? Your help would be greatly appreciated, I have never done anything like this before.
Thank you!
Carrie says
So sometimes sealing furniture painted by someone else is trickier than if you painted it yourself. If you are buying this from an individual that can tell you their painting process that can help. If they used a stain-blocking primer, an oil-based primer, or a shellac primer under the white paint, you should be safe to use a water-based poly like General Finishes high performance top coat. If you don’t know if they used a stain-blocker, it can be risky to use water-based poly. A lot of times when someone paints wood furniture white, wood tannins will bleed through and yellow the paint. Sometimes adding water-based sealer is what starts this bleedthrough even if it looked fine before. You can lessen the chance of bleedthrough by adding a bit of white paint to your sealer and also testing a small area before sealing the entire thing but there is still some risk. Another option is to use wax as a sealer. It isn’t my favorite because it can be tricky to apply and requires some upkeep but it doesn’t typically cause yellowing. Good luck!
Lee Ann says
We just re painted my moms hutch. It turned out perfect! We painted a high top table to match it. But we’re confused about sealing both. Am I correct, painted furniture needs to be sealed, especially the table top and rails where people will put their shoes. WhAt would you suggest? Thanks for the advice.
Carrie says
Painted furniture will definitely last longer and resist chipping better if it is sealed. If you use certain paints, you don’t absolutely have to use a sealer, but it is always a good idea. My go-to sealer is General Finishes High Performance Top coat – it is easy to work with and gives a good durable finish without yellowing.
Erin Garcia says
Hi. I pre painted white wainscoting beadboard for a kitchen backsplash with a burgundy color using Glidden premium paint. Now it scratches off with a fingernail back to the white board. I didn’t realize this was happening until after we put it up. It is now glued and nailed to the wall. I plan on touching it up but I wanted to know if I could use a seal coat over it to preserve it, without having to sand it all down and repaint completely. I also found out that this washable and scrubbable paint wipes off some of the color with water. So disappointed. How do I make this salvageable? Thanks, Erin.
Carrie says
I’m sorry! I can imagine how disappointing it is that the paint can scratch off. And even worse that it isn’t actually scrubbable! I think you have two choices. If the paint is peeling off and scratching off badly, I would lightly sand any loose paint with 220 grit sandpaper. You don’t need to remove all the paint, just lightly sand everything so that anything that is super loose comes off. Then I would use a good primer and repaint (you could repaint with the same paint or use a different one since it also isn’t cleaning off well.) Or if the paint can be scratched off but is mostly pretty well adhered, you can touch up any scratches that are already there with the same paint you use and then apply a sealer to help prevent further scratches and stains. General Finishes High Performance top coat is my first choice but Minwax polycrylic will also work. Good luck!
Debra Sue says
I am looking for a sealer to protect a painted coffee table – you can see it on my fb page. (Mushroom mandala table). After reading your article I’m thinking the General Finishes High performance.. but in matte or satin???
Hmmm,,,, because the table has lots of detail I think less sheen lets the art show better – but would it provid ethe same amount of protection?
What would you use?
https://www.facebook.com/DebraSueArt
Carrie says
Ok, somehow I totally missed this comment and just found it so I’m sorry for my super late reply! But I checked out your table and it looks amazing! If I were you I would use the high performance top coat in matte. It isn’t a true matte, it still has a tiny bit of sheen to it so I think it would let your art work shine through and still protect it well.
Sondra says
What is the ratio of Dixie Cotton to French Linen to achieve that lovely griege color?
Carrie says
I’m so sorry- I don’t remember and didn’t write it down. I wish I had!
Rose Heim says
I am thinking about ordering a factory painted entertainment center (antique white) on line and I want to paint it with the same color paint I have on another piece of furniture in my kitchen. They are in 2 different rooms, but I like the idea of the same color for “flow.” I’m wondering if this will be more trouble than it’s worth, as I’m sure the finish on the new piece will be hard and smooth. I read a few of your posts and tell me if this is what you recommend: 1. lightly sand the entire finish; 2. apply Zinsser color stain primer with a small foam roller and 1.5″ angled brush; 3. apply 2-3 coats of latex paint with the same tools; 4. Apply General Finishes sealer. Assuming the piece has a smooth finish, I’m worried that applying 4-5 layers of finish will result in ripples here and there on the finish. If it had a weathered finish I wouldn’t be worried.
Carrie says
The process you outlined sounds perfect! I would expect the painted finish to be a bit less smooth than the factory finish. You may be able to see brushstrokes here and there if you are inspecting it, but it should look really nice overall. But if you like the factory finish color, it might be a good idea to live with that for a bit before painting. You may find you don’t actually need to paint it.
Barb says
Are you familiar with barn quilts? Basically quilt designs painted on plywood and hung on the side of a barn, shed, garage or house. I have painted one and am wondering if I should put a sealer over it. I definitely don’t want anything that will change the color of the paint or get yellow. Suggestions?
Carrie says
Yes, I love spotting barn quilts – all the designs and colors are so beautiful! Whether or not you need sealer really depends on what paint you used. If you used an exterior paint, you should be safe to skip the sealer. But if you used a regular paint, I would use a sealer. I know that Beyond Paint multipurpose sealer can be used outdoors and shouldn’t yellow it. You could also use a spray paint clear coat- they are usually good for exterior use and shouldn’t yellow. Just double check the label of the specific one you decide to use. Good luck!