I’m sharing the best paint brushes for getting a perfectly smooth paint job on furniture and cabinets plus how to get that perfect paint finish.
When I first started painting furniture, the thing that frustrated me the most was how impossible it seemed to get a smooth paint finish. No matter what I did, I could see big bad brushstrokes all over the place.
Since then I’ve learned a thing or two about painting. It is possible to get a smooth finish with a paint brush or paint roller, but you have to have the right paintbrushes.
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Let me just say right now, I am a perfectionist. If I’m going to take the time to paint something, I want it to look good. Really good.
You can totally slap paint on with any old paintbrushes. But if you want it to look amazing, you need the good stuff.
First and most importantly, all paintbrushes are not equal. Not even close.
I love to save money and get a good deal, but even I have learned that cheap paintbrushes are not the way to go.
They are cheap because they are made of cheap materials and the bristles are rough. It is pretty much impossible to get a truly smooth paint finish with a cheap paintbrush.
For real. Check out this difference. The paint on the left was painted with a no-name cheapo paintbrush and the paint on right was painted with one of my favorite brushes.
The Best Paint Brushes for a Smooth Finish
After trying a lot of paintbrushes, I have found three paintbrushes that I truly love for getting a smooth finish.
Purdy Nylox Brushes: This brush gives an amazing finish when working with water-based products like latex paint and polyacrylic. It glides on smoothly and comes in several different sizes. I really love the angled brushes – they work really well for cutting in around edges and also work well on flat surfaces.
Purdy Paintbrushes: Even though I love Purdy’s nylox brushes, regular Purdy paintbrushes are almost as good and are a bit less expensive. They are workhorses that are just as good for cutting in when painting walls as they are for painting furniture.
Americana Décor Flat Brushes: I just recently started using these brushes after painting my kitchen cabinets. They don’t hold as much paint as the Purdy brushes but the finish is super smooth. These are amazing when you really want a perfect finish.
I know that some people swear by foam brushes, but I am not a fan. They tend to wear down very quickly and they don’t hold as much paint as other paintbrushes. And really I don’t think they leave a super smooth finish anyway.
Foam Rollers
On the other hand, foam rollers are excellent for painting large flat surfaces like table tops and cabinet doors.
Foam rollers can cover large surfaces much more quickly and efficiently than a paintbrush alone.
The big fluffy rollers you use for painting walls are not going to work for this. Instead you want a small high density foam roller.
If you want more info on rollers, I recently did some experimenting and shared my picks for the best paint rollers for getting a smooth finish on furniture and cabinets.
Taking care of your paint brushes
Once you’ve got high quality paint brushes, it’s important to take care of them. That doesn’t involve anything too difficult; mostly you just need to keep your brushes clean.
You can buy special soap to clean paint brushes, but I usually just clean my brushes with plain water (if I’ve been using a water-based paint like latex paint or chalk paint.) The important thing it to clean your paint brush before the paint dries and hardens in the bristles.
If you are going to be working on the same painting project for a few hours or even days, you can put your brush in a sealed ziplock bag and put it in the refrigerator. This will keep the paint from drying so you don’t have to completely clean your paint brush between each coat of paint.
Even though I don’t use a paint brush soap, I did recently discover this brush and roller cleaner that I really like. It’s basically a comb you can use when washing your paint brushes to help smooth the bristles and remove all of the paint.
How to get a smooth paint finish
Of course, even when you are using a fantastic paint brush, painting technique still matters.
I’ve seen all kinds of disastrous paint techniques. I’ve seen people pour a puddle of paint right onto their furniture and then spread it around with their brush. I’ve seen people paint a little here, a little there until eventually the whole piece is painted. And I’ve seen people paint in all different directions.
Don’t do any of that if you want a smooth finish.
Here is what you do want to do:
Dip your brush in the paint. It should be wet but not dripping.
Then begin painting at one edge of the piece, brushing the paint back and forth with long, even brushstrokes. Work your way across the surface until it is completely painted.
If you are using a roller, the process is the same. Start in one corner, paint in one direction until you’ve reached the opposite corner.
Once you’ve finished a coat of paint, don’t touch it!
It is so tempting to notice all the spots that aren’t quite perfect and want to just give them a little touch up.
Don’t do it.
Once the paint starts to dry, it becomes tacky and if you touch it or brush it, the paint won’t smooth back out.
Once the paint has completely dried, you can repeat the whole thing for the second coat.
Whether using a brush or a roller, when I want an extremely smooth finish, I lightly sand the surface with 320 grit sandpaper before painting the final coat of paint. Then I very lightly paint the final coat of paint with a brush.
(This is the process I used when painting my kitchen cabinets a few weeks ago and they turned out amazing.)
Head over to check out these painting tips next to make your next painting project your best yet:
- How to Paint Furniture for the Perfect Finish Every Time
- What is the best paint for furniture?
- The Best and Worst Sealers for Painted Furniture
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Chris says
I know this is a stupid question, but what do you mean by paint back and forth in one direction? Does that mean to only move the brush itself in one direction or can you move your brush forward and backward while moving in one direction as a whole, ie left to right?
Carrie says
Chris, definitely not a stupid question. It’s one of those things that is so hard to explain in words, but I will try to do a better job. You can definitely move the brush back and forth. Just be sure to, for example, paint back and forth from left to right, rather than left to right, front to back, and all which ways. I hope that helps.
Rebecca Nilsen says
Hi Carrie
I like the information you posted on painting brushes to use for a smooth finish!! I feel the same way about painting a piece of furniture… especially if you’re going to sell it….you want it to look like you care about it and wanted to take the time to make it look beautiful and professional not just slapping pain on there and sanding it down a little and putting it out there…
Carrie says
Yes exactly! I think sometimes it seems so easy to paint furniture these days that people forget you need to use the right tools and techniques.
TheJaneCreates says
Thanks for the tips on brushes. Can I please ask what paint you found to work well for your cabinets? I’d love to use one that leaves a smooth, durable, and not too matte/not too shiny finish. :-)
Carrie says
Hello! I painted my kitchen cabinets a little over two years ago and they looked beautiful but have since started to chip. So I won’t recommend the paint I used – instead I highly recommend General Finishes Milk Paint or Benjamin Moore Advance Paint. Both go on very smoothly and are durable without using a separate sealer.
Rachel says
I love General Finishes milk paint, but can’t seem to find a brush I like. Do you use the Purdy with the milk paint?
Carrie says
Yes, I do. I just painted my bathroom cabinets using a Purdy brush with General Finishes milk paint and it turned out great.
Lisa says
Great advice, just wondering if this would still apply to a dresser from a furniture store that was soft white and has severely yellowed over the years? I have tried several recommendations for removing the “yellowing” but with no success. Any thoughts? Re-doing the room but want to keep the furniture!
Carrie says
Hi Lisa, If you haven’t you could try gently rubbing the yellowed area with mineral spirits. But I’m afraid you might need to repaint the dresser white. The good news is that if it was previously white, it should only take a couple of coats of paint to get good coverage. Good luck!
Darshan says
Hi Carrie, so i’m just about to do the 3rd and final coat on my kitchen cabinets (after 2 coats of primer and 2 coats of paint). Have been sanding the cabinets down using a random orbital sander between each coat and will be doing the final sanding with 400 grit paper. But wanted to ask what would be the best application for the final coat… I have a small/short nap roller which I’ve used for the paint, whereas I did the primer coats with a foam roller (which seemed to work better than the nap roller), but it seems you’ve used a paint brush instead (which I’m hesitant in using as I don’t really want the paint brush strokes to show). Any advice in getting the best/smoothest final coat. I am using the Benjamin Moore Advance paint which is meant to level fairly well. I’m thinking of going back to the foam roller.
Carrie says
When painting my cabinets, I had the best luck with using a small foam roller. Then on the final coat, I sanded the whole thing with 400 grit sandpaper, rolled on the paint, and then very gently brushed over it with a damp paintbrush. I used the DecoArt paintbrush in the post. This gave me a very smooth finish. You can always do a test run to see what gives you the best result.
Anna says
Hello! Which of these brushes do you suggest for oil paint on furniture to get a smooth finish? Thanks!
Carrie says
Hi Anna, Purdy makes paintbrushes that can be used with all paints that work pretty well. They also make brushes specifically for oil-based paint, stains, and sealers like this one – https://amzn.to/2HNcVBT. I would go with one of those. Good luck!\
Kristen says
Thanks, thanks, THANKS! I’ve had the hardest time getting smooth results. I will definitively try your tips!
Carrie says
Good luck!
Elisa says
I’m fairly new to painting things and was coming to the conclusion that I sucked at it. After reading your article, I have some hope of not sucking at it! For my first attempt I was using a low-end big box store brush. I’m going to pick up a Purdy Nylox brush and I’m betting that things are going to go much much better.
One thing that I have not been able to sort out is how thick to lay the paint when I’m brushing it. I’m using Valspar Optimus Semi-Gloss Indoor. I’m painting kitchen cabinet doors white; I used RTF veneer to cover the cabinets themselves and it’s really going to look nice when I have it done. On my first attempt with painting the door, I was going too thin. On the second attempt I think I might have gone too thick and it was still streaking pretty heavily. I think the brush was part of the problem. But any tips as to how thick to paint would be greatly appreciated.
Carrie says
Hi Elisa, there is definitely hope for you! A good brush will make a huge difference. As far as how thick to paint, too thin is always better than too thick. When painting, you are going for 2-3 thin layers of paint to get good coverage. (And if you are painting something dark white, you may even need 4 coats.) When you do the first coat, it is going to look very thin as it dries with lots of see-through areas. The second coat of paint will really help even it out. If you paint a thick coat of paint, it might seem like it is going to go much faster, but really it will dry more unevenly and may not adhere as well. Good luck!
Liz says
Thanks for the tips! I just started the process of redoing my cabinets. I have them sanded and prepped. Will be priming tomorrow and am planning on getting the purdy brush. What size do you recommend?
Thank you!
Carrie says
Awesome! Painting cabinets makes such a huge difference! I really like both the 1.5″ and 2″ angled brushes. Either one should work well.
Marcene Romrell says
Since Fusion Mineral Paint claims to be self-sealing and provide a hard coat without a separate sealer, would you will recommend sealing with General Finishes?
Carrie says
Fusion paint doesn’t require a top coat, but they do recommend using a top coat for certain high use projects like tabletops. In those cases, I would still recommend using the General Finishes High Performance top Coat. Or Fusion also makes a touch coat wipe-on poly to use in those situations, but I haven’t personally used it yet. If you are painting something that won’t get quite as much wear and tear, I think you can probably skip the top coat.
April H. says
Hi, I’m in the process of painting raw wood kitchen cabinets, for the first time. As a perfectionist myself, I tried to diligently research in preparation and I’ve practiced on the back first to determine what type of roller truly would work best. I’m using Zinsser BIN shellac base primer and Behr urethane alkyd satin enamel. I’ve not truly been satisfied with the outcome thus far. I used 320 to sand and prep the piece first. Then I rolled on the primer and gave it another light sanding after 2 coasts, which seemed fairly smooth. However, after I added the Behr it just seemed no matter which roller type I used (Whizz Flock for cabinets, Sherwin Williams velour 3/16 mini rollers or Whizz foam rollers for cabinets) it just would not come out smooth. Do you have any suggestions? Is it possible that using a Purdy white bristle soft 2” would give better control and a smoother finish? I seem to be at a loss and a bit disappointed that this project may not turn out as I had hoped. Also, I wonder if it would be beneficial to cover the final painted surface with some kind of top coat as I have also noticed this Behr paint still seems susceptible to scratches.
Thank You! I’d appreciate any feedback you may have to offer!
Carrie says
Hi April. It sounds like we definitely have some things in common with the perfectionism and I love your roller experimentation – I’m doing something similar right now with my bathroom cabinets! I know what you mean about the roller not being as perfect as you would like. I have found that with some paints, you can get a perfectly smooth finish with a foam roller and then other times, it’s just slightly more textured. There are a few things that might help. One, if you haven’t make sure to let your paint dry 100% before adding a second coat or deciding if it is smooth because it will smooth out and self-level some as it dries. You may also want to try thinning your paint a bit with Floetrol or even a little water if it seems a bit thick. If neither of those helps, when I want a perfectly smooth finish, I will sand lightly with 400 grit sandpaper right before the final coat of paint. Then roll on the paint and immediately lightly smooth it with a high quality brush. You could also just use a brush and skip the roller all together, it will just take a lot more time. I hope that helps and you can get results you are happy with!
Charice says
I really do a terrible job at painting. You have given me some great tips.. I do have a question ;
Why do you sand before the last coat?
Thanks Charice Gwinn
Carrie says
You don’t have to sand before the last coat, but it helps give the smoothest finish possible. As you are painting, you will probably have some visible brushstrokes or roller marks. If you sand before the last coat of paint, it helps eliminate a lot of these. Sanding after the final coat isn’t ideal because sanding can make the paint finish less even.
David R Quesada says
Hi what has been your experience with painting with chalk paint on cabinets
Carrie says
My personal preference is to use a more durable paint than chalk paint for cabinets. Chalk paint has a lot of amazing qualities, but it isn’t known for being the toughest paint. I prefer General Finishes Milk Paint (which is actually an acrylic paint) or Benjamin Moore Advance Paint for cabinets. But if you do choose to use chalk paint, you can give it a really good chance at holding up well by sealing it with a good topcoat. Not wax, but a water-based top coat like General Finishes High Performance Top Coat.
Travis kennedy says
so. I’m not gonna go into how far I’ve gotten into the rabbit hole of paint brushes, but I have spent an unhealthy amount of money on literally every brand/style/size/shape of paintbrush there is to offer from all over the world. yeah my obsession for residential/commercial/industrial painting is baaaaaaaad but I just felt like I had to find “the one” ya know? literally never forget the day for as long that I live. was doing a cabinet job with my company and at the moment had a handful of new random brushes to try out lol and I was just chillin in this garage and pulled out what I felt would do good and ooooooohhhhhh myyyyyyyy gooooddddddd. when that brush hit that cabinet door, my whole world got flipped upside down. that literal first stroke I did with that brush changed my life. my heart was pounding. and at that moment I knew I have found “the one” like. this brush is soo insanely advanced that I wouldn’t expect anyone to even somewhat be able to wrap their brain around how good this brush is. it’s literally on a whole other level. never in my life have I seen such a good 1st coat. a good example of how smooth it is can easily be compared to a good brush using floetrol. never used this brush with floetrol, but wholeheartedly believe me when I say you will be brushing straight smooth as glass. SMOOTH. AS. GLASS. and for an all around basic purdy brush on average will run you about $21.50 give or take depending on size Yada Yada Yada. this brush? $8.50. it fluctuates from time to time but I’ve never paid more then 15 bucks for one of these brushes. I discovered this brush almost 8 years ago to be exact and it’s LITERALLY the only brush I will ever buy until the day I die. I went a good 5 years of straight destroying peoples cut in lines and neverendingly getting yelled at for it until one day I thought like “bro, maybe its not you that sucks, but maybe the tools/brush I’m using”. and off in search of knowledge I went it’s wild cause I’m an extremely quiet guy, but get me going on my love/pride/passion for my favorite paintbrush, I instantly become a salesman and literally want to share this brush with the world. k holy cow I gotta stop talking I just love this brush more then life itself and have no shame in showing everyone my baby but anywho, it’s called a *****proform oval 70/30 PET/PBT 2 1/2 inch brush*****.
Carrie says
Ok, you’ve convinced me – I’m definitely going to have to give it a try! Thanks for the comment – it was very convincing!