I’m sharing a simple step-by-step tutorial for sealing painted furniture along with the best furniture sealers to use and lots of tips for getting a smooth finish.
When I first started painting furniture, I really struggled with knowing when to use a furniture sealer and which one to use. I knew I wanted to protect my painted furniture so that the paint finish would last, but I never felt confident that I was using the right products or applying them correctly.
To make matters worse, half the time when I did seal my furniture, it turned into a streaky mess.
Since then, I’ve painted dozens of pieces of furniture and I’ve tested all of the most popular furniture sealers available to see which ones work the best. And in the process I’ve also learned a ton about how to protect painted furniture so it continues to look beautiful for years to come.
In this post, I’m sharing everything you need to know about choosing the perfect furniture sealer and applying it correctly for a super smooth, streak-free finish every time.
I also created a Youtube video of this furniture sealing tutorial. If you’d rather watch the video, you can find it at the bottom of this post!
This post contains affiliate links which means if you make a purchase after clicking a link I will earn a small commission but it won’t cost you a penny more. Click here to see my full disclosure policy.
What does a furniture sealer even do?
A furniture sealer, which can also be called a top coat or clear coat, simply protects your beautiful paint finish from stains, scratches, chips, and scuffs.
Sealers dry to a much harder finish than most paints and therefore are much harder to damage. Sealers also help protect your painted furniture from water and stains and create a surface that can be easily cleaned without damaging the paint underneath.
When I first started painting furniture, I didn’t really understand why you would need to put sealer over the paint. I had painted walls plenty of time and they certainly didn’t need any sealer afterwards.
Of course, painting furniture and painting walls is very different. Drywall is extremely porous and absorbs paint easily; if you scratch your walls with a fingernail, you aren’t likely to be able to scratch the paint off because it adheres so firmly.
Painting furniture is an entirely different matter. Paint doesn’t permeate the hard woods furniture is made of as easily. It also doesn’t bond as firmly to the old finishes we are typically trying to paint over. Which means painted furniture is often vulnerable to being easily scratched and chipped.
On top of that, some paints stain and scuff very easily and can be difficult to clean. Sealing your painted furniture protects it from all of these potential issues.
When do you need to seal painted furniture?
You don’t always have to seal painted furniture and it can be confusing trying to figure out when you have to seal painted furniture and when you do not.
There are a few basic rules to keep in mind.
Chalk Paint – Any time you paint furniture with chalk paint, you need to protect the finish with a sealer or topcoat. Every single time. I love chalk paint because it sticks to all kinds of surfaces and has such a beautiful matte finish. But it is not durable and without a separate sealer, it will quickly become stained and scratched.
Latex Paint – Yes, despite what many fancy furniture paint companies want you to think, you can still paint furniture with regular latex paint. It isn’t typically my first choice for painting furniture, but if you already have some on hand, it’s absolutely fine to use. But since latex paint isn’t formulated for painting furniture, protecting the paint with a furniture sealer is a good idea.
High Traffic Surfaces – Any time you are painting a piece of furniture that will be used heavily, it’s best to use a sealer. Even if you have used an all-in-one paint like General Finishes Milk Paint or Fusion Mineral Paint that doesn’t require a separate sealer, it’s a good idea to use one on high-use furniture. This includes things like tabletops, bookshelves, and dressers that will be touched daily or will often have objects moved around on their surface.
Kitchens and Bathrooms – Any time you paint cabinets or other wood furniture to use in a kitchen or bathroom, you should use a sealer. These rooms typically get lots and lots of use, they need to be cleaned frequently, and they tend to have lots of water splashing around. All good reasons to use a sealer to protect your painted surfaces so that they last longer.
What are the best furniture sealers?
There are three main types of furniture sealers:
- Water-based sealers
- Oil-based sealers
- Furniture wax
Of the three types, I always prefer to use a water-based sealer. Oil-based sealers are great for sealing stained wood, but they tend to yellow paint colors over time. And furniture wax does not give a permanent finish and must be reapplied regularly.
There are many different brands of water-based furniture sealers out there and over my 15+ years of painting furniture, I have tried most of them. Some furniture sealers work beautifully and some make me want to pull my hair out!
Here’s a quick rundown of my favorite furniture sealers:
The best furniture sealers
Best overall furniture sealers:
General Finishes High Performance Topcoat
CrystaLac Extreme Protection Polyurethane
Best budget furniture sealers:
Varathane Water-based Polyurethane
Best matte furniture sealer:
Each of these sealers is easy to apply, gives a durable finish, and applies smoothly and evenly with minimal brushstrokes.
I do have to give a caveat that the two budget sealers can be a bit more unpredictable than the General Finishes and CrystaLac sealers. Sometimes they go on beautifully and other times it’s a struggle to get a flawless finish. But I have gotten great results with both of these sealers using the tips I’m sharing below.
Want more details? I have another post all about the best furniture top coats that has full reviews of each of these sealers plus more including the ones I definitely don’t recommend.
How to seal painted furniture
I’ve seen a few popular videos on social media claiming that if you use certain sealers, you can get a great finish even if you just slap it on quickly. Sadly, I have not found that to be the case.
At this point, I have tried pretty much every popular sealer out there and while some are easier to use than others, I haven’t found any that give great results when applied haphazardly.
On the other hand, I’ve found that when you apply your sealer carefully and don’t rush the steps, you can get a beautiful finish almost every time.
Before you start, it’s always a good idea to carefully read the instructions on your specific sealer. In particular, pay close attention to the amount of time you need to wait between coats, the number of coats recommended, and the temperature recommendations. If you are working outside or in an unheated garage, applying your sealer when it is too hot, too cold, or even too humid can make it impossible to get a good finish.
Before applying your sealer, make sure to stir it thoroughly. Do not shake furniture sealers to mix them as this can cause air bubbles to form.
Choose the right applicator
There are several different ways you can apply furniture sealer:
- with a paint sprayer
- with a paintbrush
- with a clean rag
- with an applicator sponge
I have used each of these methods and they all work well. If you have a paint sprayer, that is the easiest way to get a silky smooth finish, but you can also get a nice smooth finish using one of the other methods. (This is the paint sprayer I use; it’s easy to use and doesn’t require an air compressor.)
If you choose to use a paintbrush, be sure to use a high quality paintbrush with smooth bristles. This is my favorite paintbrush for applying sealer because it gives an ultra smooth finish.
My personal favorite method is to use one of these $3 sponges to apply sealer. It’s very easy to use, glides on smoothly, and gives a very smooth finish. Plus it is easy to clean for multiple uses.
Using white paint? I tested 6 different sealers to see which work best over white paint with no yellowing.
Apply thin coats
Whether you are applying your sealer with a rag, a paintbrush, or a sponge, the absolute most important thing is to make sure you apply it in very thin coats.
It may seem like applying a thicker coat will better protect your furniture, but it won’t. Instead, applying thick coats of sealer is likely to cause your sealer to yellow and look streaky – two things you don’t want.
You can keep your sealer from getting too thick by not loading up your brush or sponge too heavily. As you are applying the sealer, your applicator should glide easily over the surface of the furniture without drips or bubbles.
If it is dragging rather than gliding, you need a bit more sealer (and possibly to stir your sealer more). If it is drippy, you need a bit less.
Use long, even strokes
Apply sealer to one section of your furniture at a time.
It’s best to apply your sealer in long, even strokes from one side of your piece to the other. As you are applying it, if you notice any bubbles, drips, or extra thick areas, immediately smooth them away before the sealer has time to begin drying.
Don’t touch the sealer while it is drying
As you are sealing your furniture, try to make sure that your paintbrush or sponge never touches areas that have already begun to dry and once you finish a coat, resist the urge to touch up your finish before it has completely dried.
If you notice drips or imperfections after your sealer has already began to dry, leave them be. Most water-based sealers dry very quickly and trying to touch up mistakes when the sealer has already begun to dry will just make things look worse.
Instead if you notice mistakes, allow the sealer to completely dry and then sand out any imperfections with 300-400 grit sandpaper before adding another thin coat.
Apply three or more coats of sealer
To really protect your furniture finish, most sealers recommend applying 3-5 thin coats. You’ll need to wait an hour or so between coats to give the previous coat time to fully dry.
This might seem like a ton of coats of sealer, but each coat goes on fairly quickly and this is the best way to build up a finish that will really protect your paint.
Handle with care
Once you’ve sealed your furniture, be extra gentle with it for the first few weeks. Even though the finish might feel dry to the touch, it can take up to 30 days to fully harden and during this time it will be more vulnerable to chips and scratches.
What if your sealer looks streaky?
Sometimes, even if you choose a great sealer and do everything as perfectly as possible, things still inexplicably go wrong. The most common issue is your finish goes on looking streaky and uneven.
Note: As a general rule, matte finishes are much more prone to looking streaky, so if you struggle with getting a streak-free finish, consider using a satin finish instead.
If you notice that your sealer is looking a bit streaky, first, make sure you have stirred your sealer well and are applying nice, thin coats. If you are doing that and it still isn’t giving you the flawless finish you want, try mixing a bit of your furniture paint into your sealer. Aim for around 10% paint, 90% sealer. Stir the two together well and then apply as usual.
This little trick has saved me several times when my furniture sealer just wasn’t wanting to play nice, particularly when I was using budget sealers like Minwax polycrylic and Varathane water-based polyurethane.
It can be tough to avoid streaks over dark paint colors. I tested 8 different sealers over black paint and found a few really great options along with some really terrible ones.
Hopefully with these tips, you can confidently get a gorgeous finish the next time you seal a piece of painted furniture.
Video Tutorial
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Jonnika says
So I reRecently painted an upholstered headboard gray chalk paint and sealed it with clear wax and it now has white spots all over it any idea how to get the white spots removed or do I put more wax on I’m at a loss?
Carrie says
It is possible the white spots are areas where there is too much wax and it needs to be buffed in more. Excess wax can often look white. Good luck!
Glyn Ramage says
I bought a white laminate bathroom vanity i sealed it with Zinders bulls eye 123 then painted it black (3 coats) with Val spar semi gloss cabinet and furniture oil enriched enamel. After reading your very informative article, I feel I should seal with a polyurethane. Can you help?
Carrie says
Your vanity sounds lovely. I haven’t used Valspar’s oil-enriched enamel but I did a little research. I found an article written by a DIYer who also worked at Valspar saying that you don’t need a topcoat for this paint – https://porchdaydreamer.com/valspar-cabinet-furniture-enamel-review/ I know that is just one opinion, but oil paints do dry very hard and since this is an oil-enriched paint, I think there is a good chance you are safe to not use a topcoat.
Jason says
Thank you so much Carrie for your guidance. It was very Helpful! for the 1st time I tried my hand painting an old dresser that was my fathers when he was a kid. This dresser was in bad shape but has a lot of sentimental value so I did not want to just throw it out. My paint job came out great and I wanted to find the best way to finish it so it will last for many years to come. I have purchased the General Finishes High Performance Satin from Amazon using your using your affiliate link.
Carrie says
Thanks, I’m so glad I could help! I love that you are fixing up an old dresser with sentimental value – I hope you love the finished results!
Colleen says
I (oops) used interior chalk paint to paint my exterior tile table. Any ideas what the best way to seal it is to try my best to keep the finish?
Carrie says
Whoops – we all do things like this sometimes! As long as the paint is adhered well to the tile, a good sealer should protect it. If the paint can be easily scratched from the tile, a sealer might not salvage the situation. My favorite sealer for painted outdoor furniture is Rustoleum’s water-based spar urethane. It holds up well outdoors and is water-based so it won’t cause yellowing. Good luck!
Michele Tesdall says
I bought a used vanity. It’s painted white, and the seller says he applied a layer of wax to the top before I picked it up. It will be used by my teenaged daughter as her makeup station, so I would like to apply something more protective to the top of it such as the General Finishes Top Coat you recommend. My question is should I do something to remove the wax first, or apply the Top Coat right over it? I am very inexperienced in this area. Hoping you can help! Thanks!
Carrie says
Great question. You actually can’t apply any liquid topcoats over wax – they won’t adhere at all. You would need to remove the wax first. You can do that using mineral spirits and a clean rag. The best way to tell if the wax is fully removed is simply by touch. Once it feels like it is all gone, wipe the furniture down with a clean rag. Then you can test the topcoat you will be using in a small section to make sure it adheres well. Good luck!
Cindy says
I am refurbishing a 70’s China cabinet. I sanded & was sprayed with behr enamel white. I’m thinking I didn’t do enough sanding because I scratched with my fingernail & took some paint off so what would you recommend to possible seal so this won’t happen again.
Carrie says
I’m sorry you are having trouble with your paint finish! First, keep in mind that it takes up to 30 days for paint to fully cure (harden) so it may just be that your piece needed more time. But if the paint scratches off super easily and it has been more than a week or two, there may be a bigger issue. One reason this can happen is if a piece wasn’t prepped properly. You said you sanded, so this probably isn’t your issue. But if you don’t clean your piece well or if you don’t use primer with a paint that really needs it, the paint won’t adhere well and will scratch easily. If this were the case, you would probably notice paint peeling off and scratching off in multiple areas. If the problem is the piece was dirty or should have been primed, a good sealer probably won’t fix the issue long term. The other reason paint can scratch off is when a sealer is really needed. If there is just one small scratch, a sealer may be just what is needed. I would use General Finishes High Perfomance Top Coat – it’s easy to apply and dries to a very hard finish.
Alyssa says
Hi Carrie, I am considering buying a painted white table to use as a kitchen table. I’m worried about wear and tear from daily use with 2 young kids, so I’m wondering how to protect the top. Do you think using the General Finishes High Performance Top Coat would work on a “factory painted” table? If so, would you lightly sand the table top prior to using the top coat?
Thanks so much!
Carrie says
Good question. If it has a factory finish, it should already have the necessary sealer in place and you shouldn’t need to add more. Of course, that being said, there are always times that a finish doesn’t hold up the way it should. If it starts to seem like the finish isn’t going to last, you could use General Finishes High Performance Top Coat. It can be used over a water-based or oil-based finish as long as it is fully dried which shouldn’t be a problem for your table. If you choose to add sealer, I would lightly sand the top with 3-400 grit sandpaper before adding the finish.
Rebekah says
Hi Carrie, thank you for your post! I have a question I’m hoping you can advise me on. I redid a kitchen table and chairs. The chairs are chalk paint (dark), the legs of the table are chalk paint, but I stained the top of the table bc it is beautiful inlay of lots of different types of wood. But now I need to seal it! I want more of a matte finish. Is there one product I can use to seal everything? Or something different for the stained part and painted parts? And the kitchen table will get a lot of use. Thank you for any help you can provide!!
Carrie says
A lot of times you can actually use the same sealer over oil and water-based products (like chalk paint and stain). In this case, since you used a dark paint, you could use an oil-based polyurethane over both. Since the paint is dark, yellowing shouldn’t be an issue. But my choice would be to use General Finishes High Performance topcoat in flat. It is easier to work with than polyurethane and can be used over oil-based stains as long as you wait a few days for them to fully dry first. Just know that the flat finish does still have a slight sheen to it. General Finishes flat out flat topcoat is more completely matte but not quite as durable.
Faith says
Hi,
I am painting the kitchen cabinets at my new home and they were initially white laminates.
I sanded them and primed them before applying an oil based cabinet and furniture paint. The paint of satin finish and it looks good but since it is for the kitchen, I want to put a layers of sealert. Do you suggest using the general finishes water based topcoat?
I am really confused as this is my first time doing it! Your help will be much appreciated. Thanks!
Carrie says
You might not need a sealer since you used an oil-based paint. In general oil-based paints dry much harder and are more durable than water-based paints. That’s why they used to be the standard for painting doors, trim, and cabinets. If I were you, I would probably hold off on using a sealer unless the cabinets seem prone to scratches. If you do want to use a sealer, I would still use the GF high performance topcoat. It is water-based but can be used over oil products once they are fully dried. (Wait at least a couple of days.) I have used it over oil before with great results.
Jessica says
Hi Carrie,
I want to buy some bedroom furniture that is solid wood and is painted with what seems to be like a white chalk paint. I would like to know of a good sealer I can put on it so the white doesn’t get marked and dirty looking? Your help would be greatly appreciated, I have never done anything like this before.
Thank you!
Carrie says
So sometimes sealing furniture painted by someone else is trickier than if you painted it yourself. If you are buying this from an individual that can tell you their painting process that can help. If they used a stain-blocking primer, an oil-based primer, or a shellac primer under the white paint, you should be safe to use a water-based poly like General Finishes high performance top coat. If you don’t know if they used a stain-blocker, it can be risky to use water-based poly. A lot of times when someone paints wood furniture white, wood tannins will bleed through and yellow the paint. Sometimes adding water-based sealer is what starts this bleedthrough even if it looked fine before. You can lessen the chance of bleedthrough by adding a bit of white paint to your sealer and also testing a small area before sealing the entire thing but there is still some risk. Another option is to use wax as a sealer. It isn’t my favorite because it can be tricky to apply and requires some upkeep but it doesn’t typically cause yellowing. Good luck!
Lee Ann says
We just re painted my moms hutch. It turned out perfect! We painted a high top table to match it. But we’re confused about sealing both. Am I correct, painted furniture needs to be sealed, especially the table top and rails where people will put their shoes. WhAt would you suggest? Thanks for the advice.
Carrie says
Painted furniture will definitely last longer and resist chipping better if it is sealed. If you use certain paints, you don’t absolutely have to use a sealer, but it is always a good idea. My go-to sealer is General Finishes High Performance Top coat – it is easy to work with and gives a good durable finish without yellowing.
Erin Garcia says
Hi. I pre painted white wainscoting beadboard for a kitchen backsplash with a burgundy color using Glidden premium paint. Now it scratches off with a fingernail back to the white board. I didn’t realize this was happening until after we put it up. It is now glued and nailed to the wall. I plan on touching it up but I wanted to know if I could use a seal coat over it to preserve it, without having to sand it all down and repaint completely. I also found out that this washable and scrubbable paint wipes off some of the color with water. So disappointed. How do I make this salvageable? Thanks, Erin.
Carrie says
I’m sorry! I can imagine how disappointing it is that the paint can scratch off. And even worse that it isn’t actually scrubbable! I think you have two choices. If the paint is peeling off and scratching off badly, I would lightly sand any loose paint with 220 grit sandpaper. You don’t need to remove all the paint, just lightly sand everything so that anything that is super loose comes off. Then I would use a good primer and repaint (you could repaint with the same paint or use a different one since it also isn’t cleaning off well.) Or if the paint can be scratched off but is mostly pretty well adhered, you can touch up any scratches that are already there with the same paint you use and then apply a sealer to help prevent further scratches and stains. General Finishes High Performance top coat is my first choice but Minwax polycrylic will also work. Good luck!
Debra Sue says
I am looking for a sealer to protect a painted coffee table – you can see it on my fb page. (Mushroom mandala table). After reading your article I’m thinking the General Finishes High performance.. but in matte or satin???
Hmmm,,,, because the table has lots of detail I think less sheen lets the art show better – but would it provid ethe same amount of protection?
What would you use?
https://www.facebook.com/DebraSueArt
Carrie says
Ok, somehow I totally missed this comment and just found it so I’m sorry for my super late reply! But I checked out your table and it looks amazing! If I were you I would use the high performance top coat in matte. It isn’t a true matte, it still has a tiny bit of sheen to it so I think it would let your art work shine through and still protect it well.
Sondra says
What is the ratio of Dixie Cotton to French Linen to achieve that lovely griege color?
Carrie says
I’m so sorry- I don’t remember and didn’t write it down. I wish I had!
Rose Heim says
I am thinking about ordering a factory painted entertainment center (antique white) on line and I want to paint it with the same color paint I have on another piece of furniture in my kitchen. They are in 2 different rooms, but I like the idea of the same color for “flow.” I’m wondering if this will be more trouble than it’s worth, as I’m sure the finish on the new piece will be hard and smooth. I read a few of your posts and tell me if this is what you recommend: 1. lightly sand the entire finish; 2. apply Zinsser color stain primer with a small foam roller and 1.5″ angled brush; 3. apply 2-3 coats of latex paint with the same tools; 4. Apply General Finishes sealer. Assuming the piece has a smooth finish, I’m worried that applying 4-5 layers of finish will result in ripples here and there on the finish. If it had a weathered finish I wouldn’t be worried.
Carrie says
The process you outlined sounds perfect! I would expect the painted finish to be a bit less smooth than the factory finish. You may be able to see brushstrokes here and there if you are inspecting it, but it should look really nice overall. But if you like the factory finish color, it might be a good idea to live with that for a bit before painting. You may find you don’t actually need to paint it.
Barb says
Are you familiar with barn quilts? Basically quilt designs painted on plywood and hung on the side of a barn, shed, garage or house. I have painted one and am wondering if I should put a sealer over it. I definitely don’t want anything that will change the color of the paint or get yellow. Suggestions?
Carrie says
Yes, I love spotting barn quilts – all the designs and colors are so beautiful! Whether or not you need sealer really depends on what paint you used. If you used an exterior paint, you should be safe to skip the sealer. But if you used a regular paint, I would use a sealer. I know that Beyond Paint multipurpose sealer can be used outdoors and shouldn’t yellow it. You could also use a spray paint clear coat- they are usually good for exterior use and shouldn’t yellow. Just double check the label of the specific one you decide to use. Good luck!
Alyssa says
Hi! I’m getting into refinishing furniture and running into conflicting information about finishes for different mediums. I had read somewhere that polycrylic shouldn’t be used on stain, only on paint, or you end up with a sticky finish. Are the 2 general finishes options safe to use on any finish without that issue?
Carrie says
It can definitely be confusing. The General Finishes High Performance top coat is a water-based finish and it can be used on both stain and paint. However, when using it over stain (which is typically oil-based), you need to be sure to allow the stain to fully dry/cure first. Generally you need to wait at least twenty-four hours before putting a water-based finish over an oil-based stain.
CARSON says
I just painted a fabric chair and find differing views on waxing or no. It will be a regularly used chair. Do you have an opinion either way as there are a lot online? Can it be any wax (ie. I have leather wax)? UGH, too many thing to think about!
Carrie says
I have painted fabric before, but I don’t have any experience with waxing it. I have seen these varying opinions about wax as well. For fabric, the wax is typically used to keep the paint from rubbing off onto clothes from frequent use. If it were me, I would let the paint dry fully and then get a scrap of white fabric and put it over the chair seat for a few days. You can then sit on that fabric and see if any of the paint transfers onto it or not. If not, you can probably get by without wax. If it does transfer, I would try the wax. As far as what type of wax, I don’t know why leather wax wouldn’t work – you could always try it in a small inconspicuous area to see how it goes on. Good luck!